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THE SAMOYED 
The Samoyed people, a dark-skinned semi-nomadic
tribe, living along the shores of the Arctic Ocean into
an immense stretch of tundras from the White Sea to
the Yenisei River are a remnant of one of the earliest
tribes of Central Asia. There is evidence that they
migrated to the Arctic with their dogs at least one
thousand years before the Christian era. They have been
known to explorers for many centuries as mild, kindly
people, manifesting extraordinary love for their beautiful
dogs, which they treat as members of the family, sharing
their table and bed which has given the Samoyed dog
an unusual background of human association. No Samoyed
tribesman ever strikes a dog; he trains by voice alone.
These people developed a love and understanding of humankind
and an unfailing sense of trust and loyalty in their
dogs which remains a part of their character today.
They lived by hunting and fishing. Existence depended
upon their dogs who herded reindeer, fought off wolves,
hunte! d the bear, guarded their belongings, shared
their beds, and kept their children warm. The dogs were
excellent fishermen and were used at times for towing
boats and sledges when it was impossible to use the
reindeer, generally the draught animal. Nansen (1893-94)
was one of the first to use the Samoyed as a draught
animal. He spent some time with the Samoyed tribe during
his expedition to the North Pole. The natives lived
in huts called "chooms", deerskin being used
as tents, clothing, blankets and beds. They were a short,
stocky people, the man standing about 5' tall, the woman
shorter. They were strictly honest and kindly, though
they managed their lifetime without a bath.
The qualities of intelligence and endurance led to the
use of Samoyed dogs as transport by most of the important
European expeditions to the Arctic and Antarctic. Samoyed
teams have made glorious history with Borchgrevink,
Amundsen, and Shackleton in the Antarctic and with Nansen
and Abruzzi in the Arctic. The American explorers Fiala
and Baldwin also used Samoyed teams. Nansen's story
of his Farthest North with Samoyeds on the first Fram
expedition is an epic of dog valor that rings through
the whole history of man's adventures at the ends of
the earth.
One has only to read of the hardships these valiant
dogs endured, worn and exhausted they were killed one
by one to feed the others, they would not touch the
meat and later in desperation it fed their masters.
Feet torn and bleeding, they never flinched and worked
until all their strength was gone. Only the hardiest
and fittest could withstand the cruelty of the bleak
frozen lands; only a few returned. Most of the Samoyed
strains in England and the United States are related
to veteran sledge dogs of these expeditions.
Antarctic Buck was often stated as being the very first
Samoyed dog to be imported into England. An article
from "The Queen"- the Lady's Newspaper of
England, May 15, 1909, proves otherwise as follows.
"The breed was first introduced into England by
Mr. Kilbourn Scott, a member of the Royal Zoological
Society, in 1889- his first dog being bought from a
tribe of Samoyeds in Archangel province in northwest
Russia and he gave the present name of Samoyed to the
breed- (pronounced with the accent on "SAM".)
Unquote. This dog was named Sabarka and as their first
dog generated interest in the breed. With more importation,
the famous Farningham Kennels was founded. Many explorers
obtained stock from here for further expeditions. Later,
Mr. Scott imported a magnificent dog, one of the pack
used by the explorer Borchgrevink, born on the Southern
Cross on the way to the Antarctic.
Again, quoted: "He stands 21-1/2 or 22 inches tall
and is measured 35 inches long from the tip of his nose
to the tip of his tail. He has the fine, open forehead,
great ruff on neck, spreading tail and hair around the
toes which are so characteristic of the breed. His fur
is snowy white all over with a gloss on the hair which
is peculiar to the breed. (Ed. note: this is what we
term silvertip on the coat.) He is a most lovable dog
and before being brought to England, he was shown to
Jack London, (who wrote so charmingly about Arctic dogs
and their characteristics) who declared that Buck was
one of the finest Arctic dogs he had seen. So typical
a Samoyed is a great accession to the breed."
The first official standard for the breed was adopted
in England in 1909. Although Sams arrived in America
before this date, it was not until 1906 that the first
Sam was registered with the American Kennel Club and
appeared at shows. Very few of our present day Samoyeds
were bred from these early AKC registered dogs, but
from dogs imported prior to and immediately following
World War I from large, well-established kennels in
England. The original Samoyed Club of America was organized
and chartered February 14, 1923 in the East. The first
official American standard was adopted May 15, 1923.
Historical background is retained. As dogs were endowed
with a fifth dimension where they in reflection reach
back for generations and know the purpose for which
they were intended, so the puppy you purchase today
will know their part in life's scheme to protect, guide
and herd, to love and be loved. Whether the subject
is a reindeer or your wee child, be assured it will
be guarded from danger with a love that knows no bounds.
OTHER DOGS OF THE NORTH
The Samoyed is confused in some minds with the Eskimo
Dogs of Labrador and Greenland, and the various breeds
of Alaska. The Eskimo is larger than the Samoyed, weighing
often 80 to 100 pounds and is seldom even half white.
Gray, tan and black are the Eskimo colors as well as
the Alaskan dogs. There are several white Siberian dogs
somewhat similar in appearance to the Samoyed, but are
rare outside their own country.
BEWARE OF FRAUD
There is only one Samoyed breed, only one kind with
a "true work dog build". The tiny specimens
of dog sometimes sold to the unwary as toy or miniature
Samoyeds are mongrels or Spitz dogs, and are not to
be compared with the noble animal whose name they borrow.
The Samoyed IS NOT RELATED TO ANY OTHER BREED. He stands
alone. He always breeds true, always shows his characteristic
traits of build and brain.
CHARACTERISTICS
The Samoyed is alert, expressive, intelligent, full
of action and displays affection for all mankind. Joy
is shown by the sparkle in his eyes and the mouth curving
upward at the corners forming the well known "Sammy
Smile".
Their intelligence can be a challenge to the owner.
Man in the past depended upon the Samoyed and it was
the latter who made the decisions, worked independently
of man for the survival of man. The dog was "on
his own" to find the reindeer, gain their confidence,
protect them from wolves and herd them back to human
environment. They taught their young this independence
and responsibility, instilling this great instinct of
reasoning so strongly that it rules the minds of our
breed today. Yet we expect this highly intelligent animal
to give up his heritage, his independence and bow to
our every wish or we call him stubborn, unmanageable,
stupid. Why do so many owners have so many problems
with their dogs while others have perfect harmony? The
answer is in the handling, not by forceful demands,
but an understanding of love and respect between them.
He HAS a mind of his own, respect it and he will comply
with love and patience. He can be the easiest of all
breeds to train o! r the hardest to control, depending
on how you handle the situation. Training MUST be given;
a command once given MUST BE OBEYED. He WILL obey and
keep his dignity if you have had close companionship
and understanding of each other. Keep in mind your command
can very well sound stupid to him. At this point while
matching wits- meet the challenge, present your point
as an enjoyable and intelligent command by expressing
delight in sharing it, praise him highly when done,
even though it was not just as you expected.
Being alert and full of action, the Samoyed should respond
as a happy worker. His great love of mankind is your
control of his independence. He is a jealous dog, he
wants your attention, he will please you to get it.
The home life of the past reflects character today.
He slept with his masters and the babies; the chooms
were his home too, he was part of the family. Tie him,
ignore him and you will have a problem dog to handle.
Love him, gain his respect, take him with you for rides,
let him share your home and life and you will build
the character his breed possesses. Character cannot
be built without close human relationship, either in
a kennel, or at the end of a chain, but as the center
of your attention, loved, respected and wanted. Your
reward will be respect, protection, performance and
love coupled with intelligence beyond belief.
The herding instinct is very strong. He will take off
after a rabbit despite your command to stay. Accept
him for what he is, he will need a fenced-in yard. If
you want a dog who will stay on your porch, who will
not stray, this is not your breed. If you are willing
to give your time and love, you will receive the greatest
treasure a dog lover could own, being owned by a Sammy.
SIZE
The standard recommends males be 21" to 23-1/2"
at the shoulder; bitches 19" to 21". There
is no disqualification of size in this breed. Size varies
from 17 inches to 25 inches though these extremes are
usually sold as pets and seldom seen in the show ring.
The majority of winning Sammies today are at the top
of their standard size, rather than at the bottom.
PERSONALITY
By nature he is not a quarrelsome dog though he will
stand his ground for what he feels are his rights. Being
an all purpose dog he will easily adapt himself to any
circumstances or environment and when brought up with
children, they will be his favorites as he excels as
a playmate and guardian who will not desert his charges
when they are in danger. Each Samoyed is an INDIVIDUAL,
even from one litter. One will be very attentive and
obedient while another may be more headstrong and less
demanding of affection as long as he KNOWS the house
is his castle when he wants it and he owns you.
Personalities can and are changed with circumstances
and environment. The happy, outgoing puppy can end up
dull, shy or aggressive through neglect or mistreatment
during his first year. Lack of harmony in the home will
upset him, he cannot be happy if you are upset. He should
be taken for short drives as early as eight to ten weeks,
meet strangers and adjust to strange surroundings as
well as other dogs when he is three months and older.
Care must be taken that he is always treated kindly.
Never allow an aggressive animal near him until he is
old enough to accept such a challenge and protect himself.
He must not be deprived of human relationship which
he needs. Never tie him outdoors alone. This will change
his personality as he was born to be free. A fenced-in
yard is a must where he can get his exercise, feel the
freedom of open area, yet be protected from death by
a car. He will want to herd the neighbor's cat, rabbits,
squirrels or explore the area, as much as te! n miles
of it.
He has a keen sense of knowing when you are happy, sad,
who really loves him, just tolerates him, dislikes him
and he will return his love accordingly. He thrives
and his personality abounds with love and companionship
in being part OF THE FAMILY, in the car as well as at
home. There is no way of fully describing his understanding,
intelligence, his value as a pet and/or show dog except
to live very CLOSELY with one and experience the great
treasure he becomes in your home.
He is a "talky" dog and with encouragement
will voice his pleasures and his dislikes. Some enjoy
jokes and ham it up when laughed at while others resent
it. He will speak with his paw or nose. Many an owner
can tell how a cup of coffee was almost bounced from
their hands when they ignored his demand to be let outdoors.
That nose will also be pressed softly under your arm
for attention, pressure added when the first hints for
recognition are ignored. They are naturals to "shake
hands" as they are quick to offer a paw in friendliness,
even when a small puppy. They use their feet cleverly
to open doors, etc.
WOOL
The Samoyed has a double coat, the undercoat being wool
which when carded and spun can be woven or knitted into
beautiful clothing. It is strong and warm. The coat
is odorless, the outer coat is coarse, long and the
tips have a silver glint. Both coats should STAND OUT
from the body, a drooping coat is NOT typical of the
breed. The color is white, cream, white with biscuit
tipped ears and/or freckles. Most Sammies today are
white though the colored are very valuable to the breed
as they have a more stand off coat of coarser texture
and their get have the beautiful silvertips which are
lacking in some of the dogs today due to breeding away
from color too long. Unusually black pigment is evident
in the colored dogs.
The wool is NOT sheared, Samoyeds shed!! At this time
it is combed out and saved. Always brush your Sammy
before you bathe him as if he is starting to shed he
will be a matted sight and a miserable job to comb out
for you and painful to him. The bitches usually shed
twice a year, dogs once, though they can have a slight
shed midseason. Once the Samoyed has had a complete
shed and the new coat starts to grow in, there is no
hair problem as with shorthaired breeds. However, when
they do shed, there is a lot of hair around. In some
areas where humidity is high, there can be more shedding
problems. In summer, when the woolly undercoat is shed,
the coarse outer coat seems to act as protection against
the sun. Puppies born in late Fall often shed in Winter
instead of Spring so there is no standard time of shedding.
Weather plays an important role. Nature provides that
the young be born in Spring and in their homeland they
have a definite pattern. Though odorless of doggy smell,
the coat WILL pick up other offensive odors if allowed
to get in contact with it. A soiled coat will have a
musty odor when wet from the rain.
FEEDING
The young Samoyed, in general, is not a hearty eater
as most breeds his size. He must often be encouraged
with meat juices or bacon grease mixed in the food to
entice him to eat. If the condition of your puppy has
been maintained through the first year, sound, NOT FAT,
it will take much less food to retain this condition
throughout his life. Nothing should be spared this first
year as growth is rapid. He will gain from about one
pound at birth to sixty pounds in this time, depending
on size and bone structure. The care received at this
time will set a pattern in eating, healthwise and moneywise
for the rest of his life. The thin puppy, the nibbler,
not getting a balanced diet often eats and eats later
on and never puts on weight. EACH IS AN INDIVIDUAL and
where one will maintain show condition on one cup of
food, another will require three times as much.
NEVER allow an adult Sammy to become fat, cut the ration,
reduce the fats. He will live much longer and be a healthier
and happier dog. Feed a balanced diet, no table scraps
except beef or chicken, SCRAPED from the bones. Keep
in mind meals were few and far between in his native
land, he survived without eating for many days. Guard
against overfeeding the bitch when weaning the puppies.
She will have a tendency to become overly fat, her appetite
is keen, cut her rations at once or she will lose her
shape and her health will suffer. DO supplement vitamins
and minerals at this time. There is quite a difference
in condition and fat.
Purchase your puppy or dog from a RELIABLE breeder and
you will receive a complete feeding plan as well as
advice throughout his life, often whether you request
it or not. See that you have the foods on hand prior
to picking him up. Take a large container for water
along, ask that it be filled. Change of water can upset
a puppy but by slowly mixing this with yours, he will
adjust without problems.
See that fresh water is available at ALL times. Ice
cubes are enjoyed in the hot months by adult dogs but
NOT to puppies!
Special additives for coat are on the market, each breeder
has his favorite, all are good. Suggestions are Gro-Kote,
Mirra-Coat and Linatone. Feed only as stated. Overdosing
can and DOES cause skin problems. They do promote a
better coat with added sheen. Fish are a main diet in
the Arctic and the oils are part of their diet.
HEALTH PROBLEMS
The normal temperature of a dog lies between 101 and
102 degrees Fahrenheit, use a rectal thermometer. Given
his necessary shots, yearly boosters, the Samoyed is
a hardy dog and not prone to illness. Most causes are
from incorrect diets and neglect. Long coated dogs are
subject to hot spots and other skin diseases when not
groomed and kept clean, from force feeding rich foods
to promote excessive coat and not providing a cool place
to sleep during the hot months. He seems not to suffer
from heat if given a shady spot, he adjusts to any climate.
He can become infested with fleas, ticks, or worms if
not kept clean and allowed to roam in affected areas.
A fenced-in yard, mowed lawn and prompt removal of all
feces will insure his health against these problems.
Prevention is much easier than cure. In case of an illness,
CONTACT A VETERINARIAN AT ONCE.
Do NOT give him bones, small ones will puncture his
intestine, larger ones will wear down the teeth. Purchase
rawbones which are edible protein and will give him
the exercise he needs, clean his teeth and pacify his
desire to chew.
Should your Samoyed shed constantly, have him checked
by the veterinarian. Unless he has been exposed to sudden
temperature changes, this is not normal. Anal gland
problems will cause this as well as a health problem.
Purchase the material listed at the back of this pamphlet
for complete information and detail.
GROOMING AND CARE
Too many new owners are being sold on Samoyeds being
"easy" to keep clean, they never get dirty,
never shed, never have odor and need never be bathed!
This IS misrepresentation of the breed. Unless under
close supervision they are NOT easy to keep clean; they
DO shed, as much as a bushel in two combings; let them
run through a barnyard and they will smell as offensive
as one. A wet, soiled Sammy has the odor of a filthy
wet, wool blanket; at this point come to the conclusion
that they must be bathed after all.
A clean Samoyed is a picture of breathtaking beauty,
a sparkling silver tipped coat as fresh and pure as
the new fallen snow. The scent of your favorite doggy
shampoo adds to this charm so even those who dislike
dogs will reach to touch this striking animal and would
welcome it in their home.
Soil begins right after bathing, the wet coat picking
up soil much more than when dry. Keep him confined in
a small clean area until dry. The coat can be kept quite
clean for several weeks by washing the feet after each
outdoor romp and rubbing the body down every day with
a wet towel, drying briskly with a white Turkish towel;
note the soil on towel.
Brushing helps to remove soil and your dog will look
presentable with daily grooming. A lawn is cleaner than
earth, digging to an extent requires a bath. The time
to bathe depends upon your dog, his surroundings, training
and you. Weather plays a very important role. A Winter
of snowfalls bathes him for you, he will become cleaner
as he rolls in each new snowfall. Frequent brushing
will not keep the coat clean, it will keep the soil
light for some time. However, sooner or later he will
become dirty and a bath is necessary.
Bathing is a must prior to a dog show, there is no excuse
for a dirty entry. Your pet should be bathed at least
twice a year for his health and comfort. Bathe right
after the wool has been combed out, this will remove
loose dead hairs and clean the skin; this stimulates
the growth of his new coat. Do use a GOOD DOG SHAMPOO
which conditions both the skin and coat, NOT a cheap
detergent which can and does dry and irritate the skin.
Use lukewarm water.
Trim toenails every three weeks if necessary, do not
cut into the quick. At this time trim the hair beneath
the pads, level with the pads. This is very important
as long hair will cause the dog to slip from poor footing.
It will also cause him to go DOWN IN PASTERN as he will
tend to walk on the heel pad rather than the toe pads
as is normal.
Check teeth for discoloration which can be removed with
a toothbrush and paste. Tartar should be removed by
your veterinarian. Hard dog biscuits and rawhide bones
will help prevent and remove it.
Urine stains the coat, bathing will not remove it unless
done at once. The sun will BURN the harsh outer coat
and it will appear a soiled brown color, especially
over the back. Be sure your dog has AMPLE SHADE AT ALL
TIMES!! Never place him where shade is not available,
plan your fenced-in area by trees.
For detailed information on grooming, note books available
on References page. The breeder should also advise you
with helpful hints.
BAD HABITS
Every breed has bad habits and the Samoyed is no exception.
This is a working breed that enjoys action, herding
and attention. They can easily become bored with nothing
of interest at hand. They will dig, in fact they are
excellent excavators by nature digging deep into the
snow for protection against the bitter cold winds in
their native land. Catching them in the act and speaking
angrily while hauling them off to their sleeping quarters
will let them know this is not appreciated. When they
go near a spot, ask them in an angry tone, *Did you
do that? Shame!!* Note how he will make a big circle
around it and look the other way. Call him away, give
him a toy or a rawhide chewbar to play with. It will
not cure the habit but it will do wonders to discourage
it and save you many a bath.
No breed can get more excited over squirrels hovering
above them, leaping from tree to tree and bark they
will. The remedy is to chase off the squirrels or call
in the dogs until the teasers find other entertainment.
They are excellent watchdogs but will not keep barking
continually while your guests are present. They bark
when company arrives, after they see who it is and receive
recognition that they were heard, they will return to
their own pleasures. It is not natural for them to keep
barking unless they are tied, bored, teased or ignored.
The very reason he is an ideal pet for your children
makes him bark and bark when they run off with their
friends and desert him. Call him in the house, give
him attention, get his mind off that deserted idea.
In a few minutes he will go out in the yard and be contented
to wait for their return.
This is a highly intelligent breed, they DO think and
have a keen sense of being loved or neglected. They
are not a dumb dog content to lay around satisfied with
what you care to hand out, THEY WILL DEMAND! The more
intelligent the dog, the more things he will figure
out to gain attention, good or bad. It takes a highly
intelligent human to cope with some of them, animal
wise. No two are alike. Environment makes the difference.
There are Samoyeds who have a propensity for foreign
objects which lasts past puppyhood and must be tried
and tested before you can make sure the house is safe
when you are away. Many Sams can be given the full run
of the house from the time they are puppies while others
will be a problem as long as they live. Early training
usually conforms the puppy into a well-mannered adult.
Don't give the puppy a shoe to play with unless you
don't mind when he chews up your good ones. Poison is
NEVER placed where a child or animal can get to it.
Never leave anything around that the puppy should not
chew when you leave him alone. Bring him out when you
are home, teach him what is his and what MUST be left
alone. An untrained puppy can form bad habits which
he will continue throughout his life, spoiling him as
a trusted pal when adult.
The chewing of hair off the front legs, skirts and tail
is from sheer boredom. A dog left alone for the day
will often do this. A bitter spray is available in pet
stores and advertised in dog magazines. The sooner you
spray the area, the more apt you will be to break a
future habit as this usually discourages it. Give him
a rawbone to chew on, he needs something to pass the
time.
Contact a reliable breeder. Beware of that REASONABLE
PRICE, the wholesale pups of those not carefully linebred
to quality stock. You will get just what you pay for.
The service of a good stud is $100.00 and up. (ED. Note-1960's,
remember..) The breeder must take the bitch to the stud,
many expenses are involved. Both parents should be x-rayed
clear of hip dysplasia, sound and a good representation
of the breed. They should be complementary to each other
for the betterment of the breed, not bred because the
service is cheap or the stud close by. Beware of false
advertising, the breeder should have PROOF of what he
advertises. Don't be misled by blue ribbons, ask to
see Winners and Best of Winners ribbons. If the dog
is a Best In Show winner that huge ribbon should be
on display. A Group winner is a Group FIRST award, not
a second, third or fourth award. Considering the cost
today, a $100.00 puppy is indeed a bargain. Do not be
surprised if a price of $500.00 is quoted for a special
well bred puppy from proven winners and producers which
is a fine show prospect. If he fulfills your dream you
will own a priceless animal and he will be worth three
times that much.
A choice puppy is the choice of the litter and if you
want a show and producing prospect this is the one you
should get. Much consideration must be taken to study
the pedigree, the dogs in the first four generations.
If they are all fine specimens, you have a very good
chance of coming up with a real winner. A litter can
produce one Champion, all Champions or none. This is
why the pedigree is important. However, a puppy from
top quality stock is a pretty sure bet that the pups
will carry far more quality and produce it than mediocre
parents, the pets being as good as the choice from the
latter. Often two pups stand out so second choice is
also in demand for show prospects. There is no guarantee
that the choice pup will be better than third choice
when adult. The breeder, if experienced, can be very
helpful knowing the faults to look for and recognizing
quality. The care you give the pup can also make the
difference. Listen to the breeder and heed their warnings
on care of the young pup. Don't expect the puppy to
be perfect. Every dog has a fault or lacks something.
The top dogs are those who have the most quality and
overall showmanship. The dog who has won top awards
over all breeds in shows is not perfect.
Every purchaser is not interested in showing a dog.
Quality pups are sold as pets though their price is
higher, naturally. Sometimes a buyer wants such a dog
as just a pet, the pride of owning a fine specimen of
the breed. This animal could be used for breeding, it
is not PET QUALITY. Don't purchase a pet quality bitch
with intentions of breeding her later, she was sold
as a pet for a valid reason. She will produce inferior
stock and harm the breed.
Above all, be sure the puppy is guaranteed healthy at
the time of sale, free from parasites, has the necessary
shots against distemper, etc. Have it checked by your
veterinarian at once, not a week later. Follow up with
the permanent shots, booster shots each year and general
checkups. He should be at least eight weeks old, he
needs that contact with his kind to adjust him in getting
along with other dogs when adult.
Are the puppies clean? If possible, visit the kennel
a few times and note if cleanliness prevails. The dam
should be clean though she may be going out of coat
and looking pretty straggly. Small puppies should never
be bathed but kept clean from the day of birth. Cleanliness
is a habit and chances are you will have an easier Sammy
to keep clean if he was trained thus.
The puppies should be happy and outgoing, not shy. Do
not expect to pick up and handle the puppies unless
the breeder suggests it and then listen to how a puppy
should be picked up and handled. They are squirmy and
if you are not used to handling them, you could drop
and injure one. Ask what food the puppy receives and
get a supply when you get the puppy or beforehand so
he will not have a change of food. Be sure the dam has
been receiving the proper vitamins and minerals to insure
proper growth.
Have all dewclaws been removed? This is done at three
to five days. A reliable breeder will see that this
is done! These will catch and can tear in causing major
surgery when older. The nails tend to curl and cut into
the leg.
THE NEW HOME
Keep your home as quiet as possible the first week of
your puppy's arrival. Your home and family are enough
adjustments and company should be asked to wait. Allow
him plenty of time to sleep. Don't allow the children
to play with him unless HE COMES TO THEM, he is a baby
and may be too tired. He should not be fussed with after
he eats. He should NOT be picked up by a child any more
than your three month old baby. He is NOT A TOY! He
is a living creature with feelings, a gift from God.
Would you think it cute if he bit your child in the
ear? Then why tolerate your child pulling his? If your
child plays rough with him, he will soon return the
rough play and when he grows up, don't blame him when
this happens, you LET it happen. Train your child that
he will learn GENTLENESS AND LOVE. This will be returned
tenfold. Lest you forget, he wants to please and you
express your wishes by the way your family handles him
when he is young.
See that he is fed on time, make out a feeding schedule.
He will housebreak faster and be healthier with this
care. Don't ask a child to take over this responsibility,
this is your responsibility, not theirs.
Don't allow a child to lead him on leash as a puppy,
you leash train him, gently and lovingly, not by roughness;
never drag him, coax him with kind words and he will
respond.
If you are not more than willing to accept this puppy
for his faults as well as his virtues, to keep him until
death, leave him at the kennel. Someone worthy of him
will soon pass by and he will have the home he was bred
and raised for. He becomes devoted to his master, he
does not adjust well passed from owner to owner and
will long for you for years once he has become attached.
Be certain that you will forever be worthy to be called
his Master.
DEATH OF OWNER
MAKE OUT A WILL AT ONCE! Your Samoyed is a much your
responsibility as the rest of your family. Should disaster
strike your home, know where he will be placed, fed
and loved. Dogs have been known to starve when owners
were suddenly killed, they were forgotten in the tragedy,
nobody was informed to take over and see that they were
fed and cared for. Make it known in writing who will
receive your pet, see that a substantial sum is set
aside for their care. See that this is in ready cash,
they will need it!!
THE LIFE'S SPAN
Puppies are born with short, white coats. Muzzles are
blunt, ears lay flat against the head, the skin is pink.
They weigh from 10 to 18 ounces. Smudges of charcoal
color appear on the noses in three or four days.
Their eyes and ears open about the tenth day, weight
has doubled. The charcoal is deepening to black and
spreading on lips and eyerims.
The third week they are on their feet in a wobbly fashion,
tails coming up over their backs for balance. Ears are
folding over. Teeth appear with a vocal reaction of
growling and barks. Play begins. Pigment is filling
in, it is often apparent on the pads, especially the
front feet. Weight about four pounds.
The fifth week is their most photogenic age, they are
irresistible! Play is a major part of their day divided
into eating and sleeping. Pulling tails, ears, biting
a paw is a specialized game. Weight 6 pounds.
The eighth to tenth week is the ideal age to enter their
new homes. A great part of their life's mental adjustments
is stabilized through association with their dam and littermates.
Ears are or soon will be up. Pigment should be filled
in at this age though breaks do take up to a year in some
lines. Tails should be carried well over their backs when
walking. Eyes will still be slatey blue in color but those
who still have this color at twelve weeks tend to have
a lighter brown eye. Biscuit shadings will disappear later
unless the color is definite, especially on the ears.
Weight at eight weeks about 10 pounds. Ten weeks approximately
15 pounds.
Four to six months is the awkward stage. Legs and ears
are out of proportion in length, the coat is suddenly
too short for the overlong body. The movement is something
else and you will wonder if all of these extremes will
ever balance together again. If he was a picture of balance
and beauty at eight weeks, his sire and dam fine specimens
well linebred, this puppy has a very good chance of becoming
another Prince Charming.
Maturity depends upon his family line and size. This varies
accordingly. The small Samoyeds tend to mature earlier.
Some family lines mature as early as twelve months though
the early maturers seldom hold their beauty and within
three years are past their best. The general age of maturity
is between two and one half to three years, even to four
years. The slow developer will hold his beauty for many
years and can compete with the best in the show ring at
seven and eight years.
TYPES OF BREEDING
INBREEDING: The mating of closely related animals.
Only top quality, sound stock should be used. This doubles
up genes, both good and bad. Two dogs of fine temperament
and intelligence will produce high intelligence and excellent
temperament. Shyness breeds fearful puppies not worthy
as a pet. You can produce the best and the worst, depending
upon the faults which are recessive in their pedigree.
The seriousness of all faults must be evaluated in this
pedigree before attempting this breeding.
LINEBREEDING: The safest and most satisfactory
of breedings. Relatives names appear often through a six
generation pedigree. The more closely in the first four
generations, the better. True line breeding is keeping
the relationship through first cousins as close as possible
to one or two ancestors. It is only by breeding with dogs
carrying the same genes that the essential qualities can
be established and maintained.
OUTCROSSING: Breeding to unrelated blood. This
practice is frowned upon unless the unrelated dog is a
good linebred and the breeding is for a definite purpose
to introduce a certain quality your line lacks. Be certain
he possesses the true prepotency for this quality. A dog
whose parents are unrelated is little more than chancebred,
he has little to offer the breed and should not be used
to reproduce.
The breeding of relatives does not produce vicious, unstable
dogs unless the parents or grandparents were mentally
unsound. This is an old wives tale. On the other hand
one cannot guarantee temperament from an outcross as too
many genes are involved.
RELIABLE BREEDER
The word reliable begins with ethical breeding, not breeding
a bitch too young, never at two consecutive heats. The
studs are used only on quality bitches for the purpose
of bettering the quality of the breed. The pedigrees of
bitches and studs are studied carefully LONG before the
breeding is to take place. The bitch is conditioned for
this mating. A reliable breeder does not just drop in
with their bitch *in heat* to a stud owner. The stud owner
would not accept such a breeding. Quality breeding is
NOT A HAPPENING! Both should be x-rayed and proved free
of hip dysplasia. More bitches should be refused for breeding
than accepted, many to be referred to another stud who
will compliment her more. The reliable breeder does NOT
feel their stud is the answer to every bitch owners prayer.
The reliable breeder is a GIVER to the breed, he loves
the Samoyed and his concern is in the breed, not in making
money. His expenses usually exceed twice the income. His
reward is PRIDE in the quality he produces. Each breeding
is well planned for a litter that will become a fine representation
of the breed, whether sold as a pet or to show. His concern
is proper placement of his puppies; prospective buyers
are screened for their reason in choosing the Samoyed,
if they can and will give it the proper care, attention
and accept its bad habits, the shedding problems, etc.,
or would another breed fit this home better? He is not
a pusher of puppy sales, the buyer must want this puppy
very much. He would not resort to hauling young puppies
to dog shows for sale reasons. He spends much time with
his puppies, building character and security in relationship
to humans. He will be honest, explaining the demands,
care and handling of the breed to keep it presentable
as a pet or show dog, a fine example of the breed. He
will furnish you with breed information or help you to
get it. You will hear from this breeder periodically.
His dogs receive the best of care whether sold as a pet
or show dog. Dewclaws are removed at three days. Cleanliness
and health go together and are this breeders concern.
Don't rush out to buy a puppy, see them, talk it over
with the family, this breeder will want it that way. You
may have to place your name on a waiting list with a downpayment
if you decide to own one to assure you of a choice of
sex and/or show prospect from this breeder. Be assured
in your mind that he is a reliable person to deal with,
that you would like a puppy from his kennel.
REFERENCES- Samoyed Books
*The Complete Samoyed* by Bob and Dolly Ward, Howell
Book House
*The Samoyed (New Zealand)* by Valerie Auckram and
Pearl M. Wilson, Cliff Press Ltd.
*The Samoyed* by Keyte-Perry, Percy Brothers, Ltd.,
London
*The Samoyed* by The Samoyed Association of Great Britain,
Battley Bros. Ltd. *How to Raise and Train a Samoyed*
by Vera Kroman, T.F.H. Publications
*The Complete Dog Book* by The American Kennel Club
*Visualizations of the Dog Standards* by Popular Dogs
Publishing Co., 2009 Ranstead St., Philadelphia, PA
*Rules on Dog Shows and Obedience Trials* by the American
Kennel Club
*The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior* by Pfaffenberger,
Howell Book House
*Dog Obedience Training* by Pearsal and Leedham, Charles
Scribner's Sons
*Training You To Train Your Dog* by Saunders, Doubleday
and Company
*Animal Genetics* by Hutt, Ronald Press Co.
*Canine Hip Dysplasia and How To Control IT* by Riser
and Miller, Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
© Copyright 1997 - 2000, The Samoyed Club of
America, Inc.
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